Prestige issue 266, September 2015
Delicacy and poetry. Haute Couture exposes all its know-how. When tradition and modernity complement each other.
Elie Saab
Back to the roots for Elie Saab, inspired by his own archives for this winter Haute Couture collection. Gold invests the catwalk with strength and precision.
Recalling the colors of ancient mosaics, soft pink embroidery, tender green, sand, brass, burgundy and black intertwine with gold thread.
© Elie Saab
Atelier Versace
Deconstruction and imperfection … controlled. Sandals and boots double soles contrast with the lightness and fluidity of the silhouettes.
© Atelier Versace
Georges Chakra
Refinement impregnated with modernity and high contrast for this winter couture collection. Mini length, midi, trolling divas train, chic patterns, sequins, fringe, velvet, long gloves, the cuts are frank and asymmetrical.
The colors are royal and aristocratic. Royal blue, crimson red, garnet, green, fuchsia and purple sometimes mixed with orange, but also the legendary black and white, crossed by metallic silver.
© Georges Chakra
Georges Hobeika
Delicate and refined, the couture collection autumn-winter 2015-2016 celebrates the ceremonial of the five o’clock tea. Vaporous and elegant silhouettes, decorative motifs specific to the art of porcelain…
© Georges Hobeika
Dior
Raf Simons is inspired by paintings over the centuries for that couture season. Long white chiffon dress, asymmetric coats, half-cape, mid-length sleeve, printed dresses ultra notched on the side …
© Dior
Ralph & Russo
Careful design and rigorous artistic work. Ralph & Russo modernizes Tsarist Russia. Tailors with crystal inserts and pearl mosaics, gold and silk ornaments, embroidery and floral reliefs…
© Ralph & Russo
Chanel
Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into a casino where high rollers are called Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis, Lily Collins … Around the table games, parade 3D tailors and asymmetrical evening dresses. The pumps with plane collar on geometric heel recall the tuxedo collar.
© Chanel
Tony Ward
Inspired by minerals, the collection is impregnated with the appearance of these precious treasures of nature … Noble materials mixed with embroidery or painting, structures with rocky aspect, crystalline reflections, amber color, topaz, sapphire or graphite … Travel in the depths of the earth…
© Tony Ward
Franck Sorbier
Grace and emotion at Hébertot Theatre. No parade for the presentation of his collection of unique pieces Eternal Snows, but a real spectacle tribute to classical dance. Mont Blanc, Mount Everest, Fujiyama … The «textile landscapes» will succeed to the smooth sounds of the didgeridoo and hang … Eternal moments.
© Franck Sorbier
In short…
Disco winter at Azzaro with a zebra print in bright orange that electrifies a long jacquard coat. At Yanina, the Russian traditional art blends gracefully with silhouettes of the 50s. The French Julien Fournié inspired by fantasy films of the early XXth century. Intimate presentations for Stéphane Rolland and Rami Al Ali.
© Rami Al Ali
© Azzaro
Schiaparelli presents his «Theatre d’Elsa», a nod to the Parisian theaters of the 1930s featuring organza perfecto «rhodophane» prints inspired by Bérard and Vertès hand-painted on the organza or chiffon, and fur patchwork. Constellations with embroidery, sequins and crystal at Zuhair Murad who turns to the stars; Sidereal shades, galaxy of tones.
© Zuhair Murad © Schiaparelli
While Fendi presented his first collection Haute Fur, Alexandre Vauthier launched his first line of footwear to the tribal instinct, like his couture collection this winter. At Dice Kayek, Tuxedos with impeccable tailoring alongside iridescent dresses.
© Dice Kayek © Fendi
From Paris to Rome
Large lace collar, volume skirts, silk crepe, velvet, lace, blue-black, purple lavender to Dany Atrache in Paris.
Caryatids pleated, chiffon, stretch nude lace and decorated golden crystals for Rani Zakhem on parade in Rome.
© Rani Zakhem © Dany Atrache
