Prestige issue 267, October 2015
Autumn-Winter 2015-2016
Opulent furs, neo-Seventies revival and burgundy shades sign the scathing look of winter 2015. A new energy that plays with genres, challenging the traditional codes of menswear.
© Archives Raschad Arabi
Each season the same refrain: we examine carefully the Paris Fashion Week to identify common points and findings, then we go towards Italians to pick them a few more ideas and we admire them almost all. The English are still different. Do not forget to also see the whole cocktail on the catwalks of the «BIG APPLE». So you have to sort out what we keep and what you leave out.
Some trends announced by the experts will never see the day, because we should still not exaggerate (the skirt for man, a perennial debate). Others, we thought anecdotal, are adopted immediately and for long. That’s the beauty of fashion: designers offer their vision of the season, but it is men-as you and me, well, mostly yourself that give life to the trend by wearing models in their own way, diverting by adjusting the figures to their lifestyle and taste of their girlfriend / boyfriend. «Fashion is in the street!», To paraphrase Jean-Paul Gaultier.
The different trends
The seventies, let the show begin
To each season, its key decade. For winter 2015-2016, the 70’s are clearly in the spotlight. Lanvin and Paul Smith sing it in chorus with their high waist baggy pants, their pullovers, their cross jacket suits, their twisted cord sweatshirts passed under the belt. The vintage spirit: yellow mustard, double-breasted suits and printed profusely. At Louis Vuitton, the accumulation of plant motifs running almost psychedelic, but small short leather jackets, tight pants and the autumn colors soothe the game.
© Archives Raschad Arabi
The plain is over
The autumn-winter is often synonymous with gloom while print is invited to revive the whole thing and put a little joy in this world. From what we could see, by end 2015, print will be all-over, showy or even colorful. Lanvin loves printing on a shirt, Kenzo also and he also puts on a long coat. Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten offer suits in total graphic printing. The prints and patterns are on the rise almost everywhere: geometric shapes, triangles, large squares, Bauhaus stripes (Paul Smith, Valentino, Issey Miyake …), ethnic motifs (Givenchy, Dries Van Noten) … You can’t go wrong. Another absolute must: the seasons pass, the tile remains. This year, it is discreet, almost chameleon, it blends into the garment. Dries Van Noten and Lanvin are using it in their pants while at Officine Générale, it is seen on the jacket and tie. Issey Miyake and Agnès B spread it on a full costume for a rather nice result. The Prince of Wales, featured notably at Dior. If you stick to the plain, think about the military ornaments and decorations, a good idea to tackle dark colors such as black, navy or burgundy.
The Dandy is cool
The dandy has not finished fascinating creators, who reveal all his facets: he is sober and elegant in Watanabe, quirky and romantic in Yamamoto, Scottish at Issey Miyake. And then there is the Dior version, which defends a «contemporary elegance» cool in tuxedo and sneakers. The details count a lot: we like the flower in the buttonhole badges, sleeveless long vests, toothed soles. In short, choose your path, but be smart and well put!
© Archives Raschad Arabi
The feminine returns
Riccardo suggests the skirt for boys at Givenchy, and it is quite successful: knit, button, it is worn over a suit, and looks like a cardigan excess. In short, it is realistic and not ugly, will he finally convince the crowds this season? To do things softly, you can let pass a thick sweater under your jacket suit dress-sweater, that is the new tic fashion of Italian designers. If you are not yet decided, follow Hedi Slimane, who defends a perfectly androgynous figure at Saint Laurent: slender pants, skinny leather, striped suits, small short jackets.
The rebel look calls us
Turtlenecks, oversize trench coats, long jackets, it’s time to reconnect with your old wardrobe! We wondered a few months ago about the turtleneck trend, well it seems that we were right because we can find it on the catwalks for next season! It is colorful with Issey Miyake, Agnès B and Kenzo prefer it in chunky knit. And for the conceptual rebels, there are the white coats of medical school covered with graffiti, tattered trouser cuff, old coats.
Leather and winter coat 2016. © Archives Raschad Arabi
The total black look
I said a little earlier, the winter season is rather dull and drab that is why it is good to remember the shimmering colors. Nay! The designers obviously do not feel like it, venturing a total black look! Issey Mikaye, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin and Margiela all immersed in the dark side.
The cross blazer
The trend continues, hello to cross blazer. The preppy fashion brought it back to the front of the stage. Lanvin wears it oversized, Dries Van Noten off suit with nothing underneath.
Cross blazer pea coat winter 2016. © Archives Raschad Arabi
The military khaki
Of all the shades of green, there is one that comes out more than others: military khaki. Fashion is often inspired by military outfits, that is surely the reason why it is so fond of that color. At Kenzo it is simple, we can find it on almost every model in his collection!
© Archives Raschad Arabi
Mitt
Forget your mittens and gloves in other peccary leather for next winter will require investment in mittens! Yesterday associated with poverty, they march today in the hands of mannequins. They disseminate them in almost any look and sometimes integrate directly into the sleeves of their coats or their hoodies!
Fur
Rising tide of wealth on the catwalks, fur for men launches a shock offensive and opts for ostentation through. Exit therefore shaved fur, ultimate sign of luxury in discretion. We will wear it in deep black, brown, down to the thigh, the knee or?, in XXL.
© Archives Raschad Arabi
The Good investments
- The coat-cape (Valentino, Saint Laurent): it asks you to be a man, it is the mantle for next winter!
- The velvet suit (seen at Balmain, Dior, Fendi, Bottega Veneta): it is very stylish and easy to wear, velvet black pinstripe, it goes very well at the office.
- The red shirt: worn with black trousers or a dark suit, like Gucci and Jil Sander.
- The turtleneck (seen at Burberry, Saint Laurent, Raf Simons …): if you want black, mustard if you can, everything else being off-topic.
- The sweater with leather insets: The chic military spirit still has a bright future ahead of it (so keep everything khaki!).
- The fur coat seen in Paul Smith, Lanvin …: small players will settle for a neck or a retail (cuffs, hood edge), but the most daring have reason to dare the real coat wide and warm!
- Shoes with notched soles: we saw it at Dior, but also Prada and many others in Milan.
- An accessory that changes everything: patent leather shoes, a top hat (Watanabe), a long colorful silk scarf or a maxi-scarf, for the parades of Milan.
