Prestige issue 279, October 2016
For this new season, designers have especially paid tribute to the workshops and the virtuous little hands that give haute couture all its glow.
Know-how, creativity and femininity. From Paris to Rome via Beirut, report on the latest haute couture collections.
Schiaparelli
© Schiaparelli
Cosmopolitan fantasy inspired by the Cirque Collection of summer 1938. Acrobatic Haute Couture with a seductive accuracy. Brocade, silk lamé, velvet iridescent pan … The Schiaparelli jacket becomes architectural and graphic.
Dior
© Dior/Photos: Sophie Carre
Back to the roots at Dior with a collection dedicated to exceptional know-how of small hands in haute couture. The tailor Bar is the main inspiration of Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux that reinterpret it in its original palette, a brightly contrasting black and white, which colors all of this collection.
Atelier Versace
© Atelier Versace
Volume XXL, fluid drape, controlled asymmetry. Donatella Versace signs a collection of a fatal, delicate and assumed femininity…
Elie Saab
© Elie Saab
The New York effervescence of the 50s infuses to the winter haute couture collection lightness and timelessness … refined know-how, lavish embroidery details, feathers and furs, vaporous volumes and silhouettes with rounded shoulders … But mini models are those who will encounter all the success.
Ralph & Russo
© Ralph & Russo
Bud Cascades, jagged butterflies laser sheaths and metallic tulle beaded dragonflies … The collection presents a sylvan landscape emulating perfection and chaos of the enchanted realms of nature. The wood muse of the duo designers embodies femininity in motion.
Chanel
© Chanel
Chanel honors its small hands, recreating, in every detail, the workshops of the rue Cambon under the glass roof of the Grand Palais … We discover a structured and graphic collection, sleek silhouette, armed with tweed jackets, peaks feathers and a palette of autumnal colors…
Valentino
© Valentino
Victorian silhouettes in homage to William Shakespeare … For their last duet show for Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli explore the concept of «theatrum mundi». Measured and austere tone, dense colors, precious and nocturnal.
Georges Chakra
© Georges Chakra
Woman on fire
Flames patterns … the new muses of the designer are intensely romantic … Incandescent feathers, sequins, crystal, beads, organza, velvet, tulle, gazar, lace, pleated, hand paintings … The cuts are graphic and sizes highlighted by black velvet surrounded by pink blush, hot pink, red or ruby…
Basil Soda
© Basil Soda
Haute Couture collection reminding us of a Greek goddess, strong and fierce, charming and attractive. Bold colors, geometric cuts, structured volumes, printed crepe pleated shades accented tulle adorned with Cornelli embroidery and silk fringe, 3D accessories in gold to complete the look.
Georges Hobeika
© Georges Hobeika
Metallic lace, silk shantung, organza embroidered with silk son, gazar … The House infuses in its winter collection subtle virtues. Fine fabrics, majestic robes, aerial lines.
Rami Al Ali
© Rami Al Ali
Elegance, creativity and refined glamor … the collection illustrates the gathering of small details through ornaments and embroidery. Cinched waists, puffy skirts, bare shoulders, tulle, satin and chiffon meet lace, crystal mesh and gems … Burgundy, blue, lilac and green tones.
Tony Ward
© Tony Ward
«Flight»…
Couture collection full of contrasts, inspired by an imperial and wild bird. Dresses adorned with natural feathers, birds and precious materials, bright colors, soft and rigid volumes, work of materials with intriguing blends.
Rani Zakhem
© Rani Zakhem
Pomp of the last Empires, combining couture and embroidery.
Amethyst silk velvet and crystal, peridot and precious braces velvet dresses «black diamond» and sequins, tulle with rose gold hues, hand painted bouquets … Each model its precious touch.
